As always, when working with knifes and other tools, use extreme caution and wear safety glasses.
Supplies needed
- 24″x24″ hardboard
- black, white, brown and silver acrylic paint
- large black construction paper
Tools needed
- Utility knife
- flush saw (other types may also work)
- drill
- sand paper
- large and small paint brush
You need 4 basic colors: black, white, brown and silver. The black and silver will be used the most as they will be the undercoat and base color respectively.
Make a viking shield
I started with a 24″x48″ hard board for the shield (right). Since the biggest side of the hard board is 24″, that was the biggest my shield could be. Mark off 12″ from two adjacent edges and mark it with a thumb-tack; this is the center of your shield. Now use a string with pencil tied to the end and wrap the other end of the string arond the tack so that the pencil reaches the edge of the board. Now you move the pencil at the full extension around the tack and draw a circle. With a flush saw, cut the shield out along the line you just drew. I used a flush saw because it is flexible and does a nice job of cutting along the circular line. Other types of saws may also work.
To create the effect of many wooden boards joined together, cut seams in the hard board. Draw lines down the middle of the shield and then continue to mark parallel lines about 4″ apart (bottom-left). Using a utility knife carefully cut v-shaped seams down each line (bottom-middle).



Since the hard board had a glossy smooth surface, I sanded it down with rough sand paper. This will give it a rough wood like effect (top-right).
With a large nail, score random lines on the surface of the shield (bottom left). The lines should be in the same direction as the seams cut earlier. You can see the effects of the scoring and the seams that were cut (bottom right). Now we are ready to paint!


Give the shield an light undercoat of black paint (bottom). This provides an initial layer for the base coat to stick to later. The reason for using black is to give the shield a darker look. Let the shield dry for a day.


Let’s start on the shield boss while we wait for the shield to dry.

Viking shields have a metal cap in the middle of the shield called a boss. This acts as a cover for the hole that will be in the middle of the shield; which is also where your handle will be. For a boss, I used a 28 oz. styrofoam bowl (left). The bowl will be fixed onto the shield with the bottom facing forward. This means only the bottom of the bowl needs to be painted. Start by giving the bowl a blackundercoat. Since the bowl will eventually be silver, make sure the black undercoat is solid. Silver will show better when painted over a black surface. For me, it took 3 to 4 coats of black paint to finally achieve a nice solid color (right). Wait for the black coats to dry and then paint the bowl silver. Again, this should take 3 to 4 coats.
Once you decided on your boss, you need to cut a hole that is about 0.5″ smaller than the diameter of the boss (bottom left). This is because you will attach the boss to the shield by the lip of the boss. Again, you can use the pencil and string to draw the circle. But I could not use the flush saw to cut this inner circle because it was too small. I ended up using the utility knife which took a really long time.


Once the black undercoat for the shield has dried, paint the base color brown over it (top middle). Be careful not to get too much paint into the seams that you created as it will fill them up. If you do get too much paint in them, just use your brush or a paper towel and soak it up. This brown might seem very bright but that is ok because we are going to use a technique called washing to bring back the dark textures of the shield.
After the brown has dried, “wash” the shield with black paint. Washing is the techique of using very watery paint or ink and applying it over the whole surface. Since the paint is watery, most of it will flow into the seams and textures of the surface. This brings out the different depths and creates a shadow and outline like effect. It also makes the base color a bit darker as some of the wash stays on the surface (right). Just take some black paint and add water to it until the paint can flow easily. It may be safer to make it more watery than less the first time you do it because if it is not dark enough, you can always give the shield another wash. But if it too thick, then you will essentially be painting the shield black instead of just giving it a wash.
To finish up the paint job, we will highlight the shield with a technique called drybrushing. Make sure the wash has fully dried before doing this. To drybrush, you take the base color and make it brighter; usually by mixing in white paint. In this case, our base color is brown and just add a few drops of white into it. This brown should be noticably brighter than the original brown. Dip the brush in the paint and then wipe the paint off the brush with your paper towel. This might seem extremely stupid but trust me, it is very important that most of the paint gets wiped off the brush. In fact, you should have a hard time seeing the paint after your done. Now with the almost paint-less brush, start brushing the surface of the shield starting with the edges. This will require many many strokes for you to see any effect. And it will require you to get more paint and wipe it off again and again but do not be tempted to leave more paint on the brush. If you do it long enough, you will start seeing highlights on edges of the shield. Along with the washes, this will give the shield a realistic 3D effect (bottom). From the picture, you can see the edges around the seams tend to be brighter. These are not blemishes in the picture but actual highlights on the shield.

Before securing the boss to the shield, I stacked another styrofoam bowl under the painted one and glued both of them together. This helps make the boss stronger. Center the boss over the inner hole. Tape the boss from the back side of the shield to secure it temporarily. Then from the painted side, drill 4 evenly spaced holes through the lip of the boss all the way through the shield (top), making sure none of the holes will come in contact with the vertical handle in the back (bottom). Once the holes are drilled, screw the boss into the shield using machine screws with cap nuts. The cap nuts should be on the painted side.

The handle should be attached vertically relative to the seams in the shield. The seams should be horizontal. Like the boss, temporarily tape the handle to the shield. Six holes should be drilled through the handle and shield, three on each side of the boss hole. But unlike the boss holes, the handle holes should be drilled from the un-painted side. This is so you can center the holes in the handle (top). For the handle, also use machine screws and cap nuts. In addition, add a 0.25″ cut washer to the painted side. These are the large round coin sized discs (bottom left).


Finally, you see the finished product! (top right).
Make a viking hat
Find a black piece of construction to save you the trouble of priming the hat with black paint (left). The best way in making the origami viking hat is to follow the instruction here: Instructions on folding a viking hat. Make a couple of small hats with normal paper first for practice. Try on the hat and see if it fits before you paint it.

Create a nose guard to make the hat look more serious. It is just a rectangular piece of construction paper with two half triangles cut out where it crosses your eye (right).
Paint the hat silver except for the two horns. Look at the finished image below to see what the horns are.
If the hat does not stay on, punch a hole on the two sides of the hat and put a string through it.
Viking beard and sword
I did not know how to make a beard or sword so I decided to buy it from a costume shop.

Finished

Four tubes of acrylic paint: $9.50
Large sheet of black construction paper: $2.35
Plastic sword and fake beard: $11
Home-made shield: $5
Dressing up in a make-shift viking costume with oragami hat: priceless